An Egyptian Bazaar
Vocabulary
| mega | museum | characteristic |
| mall | quarter | medieval |
| route | bazaar | caravansary |
| tour | trade (3) | obligated |
| eager | caravan | take/took/taken (2) |
| charm | free (4) | stand by (2) |
| cheap | discount | stand/stood/stood (3) |
| hustle | hustler | marble (2) |
| humor | destined | approach (2) |
| expect | provide | depending on |
| low (3) | sense (3) | sense of humor |
| price | treat (3) | bargain (2) |
| size | show (2) | feel sorry for |
| eatery | obliged | generation |
| local | inscribe | get/got/gotten |
| scene | swallow | give/gave/given |
| scene | venture | find/found/found (2) |
| careen | bustling | go/went/gone (2) |
| scene | forever | feel/felt/felt (2) |
| wheel | tuk-tuk | balance (3) |
| hop in | graceful | pedestrian |
| strand | chaotic | swallow up |
| rustic | block (3) | montage |
| rack | vehicle | commotion |
| refuge | intricate | craftsman |
| verse | intense | tombstone |
| holy | blessed | relative (2) |
| soul | kosher | competitive |
| effort | delicate | prosperous |
| spin | terrace | annoying |
| flour | struggle | subsidize |
| pastry | point (3) | appreciation |
| lentil | explore | easy/easier/easiest |
| garlic | variety | make ends meet |
| mix | joyride | make a point |
| fill | heaven | easy/easier/easiest |
| teem | explore | downtown |
| gap | croquet | dive in (3) |
| gated | grow up | parallel (2) |
| gritty | privilege | run/ran/run |
| invite | wander | environment (o92) |
| zone | retreat | run/ran/run (4) |
Video: 13:50 to 18:37
Transcript
After the museum, Cairo’s characteristic old quarter is a colorful celebration of today’s Egypt. Khan Al-Khalili is the mega mall of medieval bazaars.
Six hundred years ago, it was a caravansaray, a stop on a caravan trade route. Then, when the Ottoman Turks took Egypt, it became a bustling Turkish bazaar.
Today it’s a stop for every tour group and the merchants are standing by . . .
Bazaar Merchant, One: “How are you? Ah! How can I take your money?”
. . . eager to charm you into a little shopping.
Merchant, Two: “Welcome, just have a look here — Everything is FREE!” Bazaar Merchant, Three: “Welcome to Egypt. Today, we have a 100% discount. Because today is my birthday.”
Merchant, Four: “Buy one, two free today. Cheapy-cheap.”
Merchant, Five: “No money, no honey. Don’t cry!”
The hustlers can be intense and annoying — or fun, depending on your approach.
Merchant, Six: “Hello, my friend! My friend! Hello! Good morning.”
Dive in, with a sense of humor. Bargaining is expected in Egyptian markets; treat it as a game. Never feel sorry for — or obligated to — the merchant. If you see something you like, show some interest and see how low you can get the price.
Merchant, Seven: “Here, your size.”
Travel Host: “Maybe $5.”
Merchant, Seven: “Big size, for you . . . Give me $5.”
Travel Host: “Okay, okay.”
I find that simply venturing a few blocks away from the tourist-friendly bazaar — suddenly, the tourists are gone and I’m swallowed up in a completely local scene.
Wandering through the colorful market streets here in Cairo’s Islamic quarter, you feel that it goes on forever. Three-wheeled tuk-tuks weave through the action. I love to hop in one for a quick joyride.
There’s something strangely graceful about this chaotic dance of careening vehicles, merchants, and pedestrians.
Exploring the Islamic quarter creates a montage of memories. It’s a commotion of activity: everywhere you look, something you’ve never seen before is happening.
Somehow, bikers balance rustic racks of bread. Craftsmen inscribe marble tombstones with verses from the Holy Quran: “The peaceful soul, after a blessed life, will finally rest in heaven.”
With a little effort, you’ll find it can be easy to become part of the scene.
In this shop, a man spins delicate strands of flour that will become a favorite local pastry, kanafeh.
The classic street food here is koshary — lentil, rice, pasta, garlic, and tomato sauce, all mixed together into a quick and cheap treat.
The distinctive clanging stokes local appetites.
And small bakeries are steadily producing hot balloons of pita bread, destined to be filled with falafel.
Bread is subsidized by the government, to make life easier for people struggling to feed their families.
Walking through neighborhoods like this, you gain an appreciation for how just making ends meet is a daily struggle for millions in a teeming city like Cairo.
I make a point to explore a variety of neighborhoods.
Here in Egypt, like almost anywhere, there’s a big gap between rich and poor.
In the relative cool of the evening, the prosperous streets of downtown are filled with window shoppers and thriving eateries — clearly a world for Egypt’s more privileged class.
And gated social clubs in a place like Egypt provide a refuge where the wealthy can live in a parallel world, protected from the gritty reality of the streets.
My friend Tarek, who runs a successful tour company, has invited me out for the evening. Tarek grew up as a member here. He met his wife here and today their children enjoy this privileged environment almost daily.
These clubs have something for all generations — birthday parties, playgrounds,
competitive sports.
Adults can retreat to the no-kids zone to play a quiet game of croquet with friends they’ve been socializing here with since childhood — or just to watch from the peaceful terrace.
Questions
Bazaar, Marketplace, Open Market. Has the Khan al-Khalili been in existence since the time of the Great Pyramids?
Rug, Carpet. Did the travel host say, “How can I take your money? Everything is FREE! Today, we have a 100% discount because today is my birthday. Buy one, get one free. Cheapy-cheap”?
Merchant, Trader, Vendor. Are the prices for items set and labeled?
Craftsman, Artisan. Did the host buy an oriental rug?
Porter, Deliverer. The bazaar is empty, very quiet and orderly. Is this right or wrong?
Bargain, Haggle. Was there a potter or ceramicist making pottery?
Rugs, Carpets. What kinds of food do Egyptians eat? Do they like pizza and hamburgers?
Embroidery, Tapestry. Is the whole of Egyptian society the same? Is the whole of Egypt traditional?
Jewelry, Silver, Rings, Pendants. What do people do in the rich social clubs?
Trinkets, Souvenirs. I have visited Egypt. Yes or no? Have your friends visited Egypt?
Vases, Pottery, Ceramics. My friends and I would like to live in Egypt. Is this correct or incorrect? Would you like to visit Egypt?
Brassware, Copperware . Are there marketplaces, open markets, flea markets, or bazaars in your city? Describe them. Are they popular?
Hookah, Shisha, Waterpipe. What might happen in the future?
Spices, Herbs, Tea, Dried Fruits, Nuts. Should people visit and shop in bazaars more than at department stores, supermarkets, and shopping malls?
